What makes Moalboal one of the best holiday destinations in the country? That’s easy. This small town, just three hours away from the bustling city of Cebu, has everything you can ask for.

text and photography PABLO S. QUIZA

YES, MOALBOAL HAS IT ALL, for everyone, at any price range, dry and wet, high and low, busy or peaceful, left and right, day or night. The perfect white sand beaches, the stunning sunsets, some of the best scuba diving sites, ideal freediving locations, plenty of dining options, nightlife, and adventure.

What else can you ask for? Moalboal is located just 100 kilometers (62 miles) south of Cebu City, a leisurely three-hour drive through some breathtaking scenery, the mountain tops in the Barili area, and the windy coast road of Dumanjug and Ronda. Upon reaching Moalboal town proper, located along the national highway, turn right towards Saavedra or Basdiot areas. The first takes you to the more peaceful and secluded resorts along the white sand beaches, while the second to the more active and vibrant section where most of the nightlife and restaurants are located.

Basdiot is also where one can find the freediving and snorkeling spots, and the world-renowned sardine run in Panagsama Beach. Yes, that’s correct —the sardine run of Moalboal is the world’s second sardine school in size after the one in South Africa, with the main difference being that the one in Moalboal is not seasonal but permanent.

The famous sardine run puts Moalboal on the diving map. It is a big attraction for divers or anyone passionate about the ocean, such as myself. The sardine run is paramount to the economy of Moalboal, and a strict ban on net fishing has been implemented for years.

In a study conducted in 2019, a group of scientists led by Rod M. Fujita of the  nvironmental Defense Fund, one of the world’s leading environmental organizations, concluded that: “The data estimates that there were about 50,000 sardines in the sanctuary. At the going rate of US$2/kg, the whole school was worth about US$33,000. We then looked at the economic benefits the sardine school generated to estimate its value for ecotourism. This included jobs as guides and in the hospitality industry, user fees collected by the local government, hotel stays scuba rentals and excursion fees. We estimated the total economic value of the sardine school: about US$17 million.”

Mind-blowing, to say the least. 

…THE SARDINE RUN OF MOALBOAL IS THE WORLD’S SECOND SARDINE SCHOOL IN SIZE AFTER THE ONE IN SOUTH AFRICA, WITH THE MAIN DIFFERENCE BEING THAT THE ONE IN MOALBOAL IS NOT SEASONAL BUT PERMANENT. 

But what is all the fuss about this swarm of fishes? I will be honest— it’s not easy to put in words. You have to see for yourself. Many dive shops along the beach will take you for a scuba baptism, with all the safety measures required, after a quick course on how to use the equipment and have a memorable encounter with this unique marine phenomenon. The shape-shifting silver mass of thousands of fish in constant movement is otherworldly; the day becomes night when the shoal of fish swims over you, and the feeling of being surrounded by thousands of sardines is magical, an almost surreal experience.

I almost forgot to mention my favorite resident of the reef! I could distinguish a few individuals from the many, gave them names, swam with them daily, and spent countless hours just looking at them as they grazed the fields of posidonia, chewed on corals, or munched on jellyfish. They allowed me into their personal space, not bothered by my clumsy presence or bulky underwater camera. Pssssst, this is a secret, they seem to say. I figured out their favorite snack: the greenest pechay in the market. Yes, green turtles LOVE pechay, and they will chase you until you have no more!

If the sea and its depths are not appealing enough, there are still many things to do around Moalboal, and they are equally adventurous, if not more. Just a few kilometers further south, there are plenty of waterfalls and canyons to explore. Kawasan, Aguinid, Inambakan, Tumalog, Dao, Binalayan, Cambais, Matayupan, and Kabutongan, to name a few, are just some of the 18 waterfalls to check out. 

You can also hike to the most famous peak in Cebu, Osmeña Peak, at 1,013 meters above sea level. One of the top must-visit spots in the region where you can have the best view of the sun setting behind Negros island and spend the night camping.

There are, no doubt, plenty of people who are not into any outdoor activity or adrenaline rush. Yet, Moalboal still presents itself as a perfect destination with plenty of cool bars along Panagsama beach, like the popular Chili Bar or the cozy Ester’s Bar, perfect for enjoying a beer or two with the sunset. In addition, along the coast are several restaurants with different styles, like the recently opened three-story-high Hungry Monkeys, located near the busiest intersections of Panagsama, with plenty of international, local, and vegan options.

The nicely-interiored Trattoria Altrove, with its delicious pizza cooked in a brick oven, the elegant Kugita Seafood and Charcoal Grill, and my personal favorite, Kuan Bar, with its generous Scandinavian portions or the vibeful Smooth Cafe with its creative burgers and their incomparable coffee, and countless other smaller, intimate, local, quiet restos and carenderias dotting the road all along.

You will never run out of options. When it comes to places to stay in Moalboal, there are many options for all budgets. Luxury hotel rooms like the Club Serena Resort, one of the most established in the area, just underwent a major renovation. Most of these lodgings overlook the Tañon Strait, where you can see stunning sunsets. There are also shared dormitories in backpackers’ lodges where you can meet fellow travelers. Finding rooms on weekends, during holidays, and during peak seasons is usually challenging, so I advise booking in advance. Whatever your style is, Moalboal will not disappoint you. And that’s a promise.