With one swift motion, James Doran-Webb, transplanted artist from Birmingham, England, bolts a piece of driftwood onto the shoulder of a gigantic rearing horse at his workshop somewhere in industrial Mandaue City. He is working on the finishing touches of his annual display of driftwood sculptures at the prestigious Chelsea Flower Show in London, a four-day event every May displaying the best in garden design. Invitation to this event is very stringent, and James has won his fair share of accolades while participating, even garnering the attention of the queen herself. The current project is set to be the centerpiece of a London fountain exhibit, but his other works are no less spectacular. Several of them adorn Singapore’s Flower Dome at the Gardens by the Bay, and a sculpture called “Mag Anak”, which depicts a Philippine eagle and its young, watches over the AGILA Flying Theater at Enchanted Kingdom.

A few days before he ships the huge artworks, James welcomed us into his workplace. Flitting from English to Cebuano effortlessly, he ushered us into his furniture showroom for tea and biscuits. For first-time visitors, this hard-to-find factory is a mix of the mundane and the magical. There are several woodworking stations where his people are mass producing wooden tables and décor, while further on is a menagerie of leaping and flying animal forms. His fond childhood experiences of working with wood and antiques have ingrained artistry into his system. The very same themes were what drew him to Cebu.

WHAT DREW ME IN WAS THE CRAFTSMANSHIP,  James recalls. Cebu, according to him, is alive with the arts and crafts.

Bantayan crafts, which trains fisher-wives in the handicraft and souvenir trade; and post-typhoon recuperation efforts. He also networks with locals to salvage and sort driftwood – an improvement from his days paddling a kayak to manually collect the pieces. With practiced focus, James transforms driftwood into larger-than-life representations with elegant detail. And his work is never static. His animal depictions are full of movement, scenes you would see in nature, forever still but nevertheless playful: a frog about to dive into a pond; a ram perched precariously on a towering pile of rocks; or a kingfisher cresting the waves, fish in tow. The angles of their anatomy are all life-like. There are rabbits with ears pricked, wary of the slightest sound; dragonflies alighting on metallic bushes; or an eagle midflight, motionless yet always on the cusp of motion.

Craftmanship, according to James, is a vital trade here: from the delicate use of capiz shells in Cordova, to the artful flourishes of Careta’s lapida makers; from the down-to-earth boatmaking in the wharfs of Bantayan island, to the dedicated artisan at every city corner whittling down wood to make a piece of décor. He wants to live here, he says, a place that celebrates its own heritage of handicraft and creativity.

Cebu is as much home for him as England. His community work includes setting up the 80,000 Trees project, a sustainable tree-planting initiative; Bantayan crafts, which trains fisher-wives in the handicraft and souvenir trade; and post-typhoon recuperation efforts. He also networks with locals to salvage and sort driftwood – an improvement from his days paddling a kayak to manually collect the pieces. With practiced focus, James transforms driftwood into larger-than-life representations with elegant detail. And his work is never static. His animal depictions are full of movement, scenes you would see in nature, forever still but nevertheless playful: a frog about to dive into a pond; a ram perched precariously on a towering pile of rocks; or a kingfisher cresting the waves, fish in tow. The angles of their anatomy are all life-like. There are rabbits with ears pricked, wary of the slightest sound; dragonflies alighting on metallic bushes; or an eagle midflight, motionless yet always on the cusp of motion.

IN JAMES’S HANDS, TIMEWORN driftwood is transformed into larger-than-life representations with elegant curves and intricate detail

LOCAL FLAVORS

It takes time, and daring, for a non-Filipino to develop a craving for local flavors. James was no different. But once he got over the strangeness, he became an enthusiast. Below are some the delicacies that he recommends for a taste of a true cultural experience.

TUBÂ

Tagay na! This local wine distilled from coconut sap brings sweet and tart flavors to the fore. While lots of regional variants exist, the orange rum-like version is famous and easy to find.

BALUT

This steamed fertilized duck egg is part and parcel of Filipino culture. The flavorful broth and creamy yolk within are definite local favorites.

LAING

Hailing from the Bicol region, this spicy dish of dried taro leaves and coconut milk is a wonderful appetizer or complement to a native meal. photo courtesy of the Peach Kitchen

BICOL EXPRESS

Another zinger from the eponymous region, Bicol express is a spicy stew of sliced peppers and coconut milk. You can often find pork or fish added to the dish in local variants.

PUTO,SIKWATE AND MANGGA

The trifecta of glutinous rice, sweet tropical mangoes, and a steaming mug of native hot chocolate is hard to resist and forms a staple of Filipino snack time or dessert.