Challenging the Limits of Filipino Cuisine at Sialo.
by Annette Osmeña Biermann | photography Tonyo Carcel
Sialo surprised me.
It offers a new culinary experience unlike anything else on the island. Chef-owner Ronald Villavelez shatters the confines of Filipino cuisine, rendering it not as fusion but as something that feels “boundary-less.” Its sophisticated flavors and innovative techniques set Sialo apart from our typical everyday Filipino restaurants. Yet it is also distinguishable from its fine dining counterparts in its laid-back, enjoyable ambiance and experimental philosophy. This is where the chef and his team of sous chefs break all boundaries, making it a hotspot for culinary experimentation and a testament to the joy of dining. Every dish pushes the envelope and challenges preconceptions while keeping the experience engaging, immersive, and fun.
Chef Ronald Villavelez, the visionary heart and soul of Sialo, is a self-taught culinary artist whose unconventional path led him to a deep exploration of local ingredients. He emphasizes that the essence of his culinary creations is rooted in the ingredients he sources. He has partnered with local farmers from the north to the south of Cebu. He discovered these farmers through a collective on Facebook, and this collaboration has become a two-way exchange. The farmers supply exotic ingredients that inspire some of the outstanding courses on the menu, creating a regular demand that allows the farmers to produce a steady supply, contributing to the preservation of Cebu’s indigenous culinary heritage.
The restaurant opened last October with a 24-course menu that tells a story showcasing Cebu’s enchanting contrasts, where forests, mountains, beaches, the ocean, and the city coexist. The amalgamation of these distinct environments makes Cebu a place like no other, and Sialo’s degustation mirrors this remarkable diversity. Though the recipes were still in R&D just three weeks before the restaurant opening, every aspect of the dining experience had been meticulously considered, a testament to the chef’s extensive research and experimentation.
One dish that stood out to me was the Itlog Mo Noy Orange. A single-bite egg yolk croquette, paired with a mushroom jelly, bursts in your mouth. But the real surprise? A sphere of mango and orange encapsulated within a sphere of goat milk yogurt, masquerading as a poached egg. The tangy and sweet mango, orange, and yogurt flavors cut the egg yolk’s fat and richness and the mushroom’s umami to create a delicately balanced dish.
Another memorable course was the Balangaw, the Cebuano word for rainbow. Soft textures are painted onto the plate to be licked by the diners. It sounds silly, especially at a fine dining restaurant, but once you’ve done it, you can fully appreciate the dish’s simplicity and complexity. Each color represents a different flavor base. Some were savory vegetables like tomato and carrot, whereas others were sweet delights like blueberry and Curaçao. So, depending on which direction you licked your plate, you had a completely different dish in your mouth. From red to violet, it tasted like a savory tomato dish with a hint of sweetness. From violet to red, it was more like a dessert with an umami kick at the end. Depending on how you ate the dish, it was a memorable and interesting experience to have a completely different, complex, and deep flavor profile.
A “salad” dish, Paku, Not Wings, was also a standout. It wouldn’t be fair to call it a salad but rather a whimsical creation that redefines what a salad can be. A chicken and paku salad is turned into a creamy ball on a landang shortbread cookie, paired with a carbonated “liquid salad” with tomato bacon foam. Chef Ronald demonstrates his ability to take the familiar and create something unexpected with this dish.
The restaurant’s ensemble of sous chefs consists of young, fresh graduates who share the chef’s passion for experimentation and innovation. Unlike some classically trained chefs, he cherishes a fresh-out-of-the-oven team because they are eager to learn and challenge their limits. This youthful exuberance and willingness to try new things manifests in the kitchen and the dining experience—a level of fun rarely found in fine dining establishments.
In Chef Ronald’s quest for culinary experimentation, Sialo is not just any restaurant—it’s a transformative experience that gives Filipino cuisine a new identity.
While some flavors may evoke memories of home, others are entirely novel. There isn’t a dish where I would say, “It tastes just like Lola used to make it,” because this experience was nothing like our Lola’s cooking. The degustation invites you to savor the familiar tastes of home while acknowledging that you can’t replicate it at home so easily. That in itself makes dining at Sialo unique.
Sialo’s innovative approach to cuisine creates a unique blend of flavors and techniques, setting it apart as a trailblazer in Cebu.
Chef Ronald is pushing boundaries again with his Christmas tasting menu as one who enjoys a challenge. Running from December 1st until the third week of January, this holiday extravaganza delves deep into Cebuano Noche Buena traditions and puts a modern and innovative twist to each dish. You will want to make a reservation to be sure not to miss this. Sialo is open for dinner from Wednesdays to Sundays at 6-10 PM.
Open Wednesdays to Sundays at
6:00-10:00PM
www.sialocebu.com/reservations
+63 920 928 6238
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